SWEDEN’S HIDDEN GEM

Gothenburg has been called a “mini-London” thanks to its sophistication and edginess — whether you’re a foodie or a fan of consignment store shopping, there’s more than enough activities to keep you occupied. Old and modern architecture mix together in this 404-year-old city with a great appreciation of American popular culture. Gothenburg is a very walkable city, as well as with a ultra-reliable tram and ferry system working together–you can get around on both for just $4.50 per day. Be aware there are no direct flights from New York to Gothenburg; you will have to travel from JFK to Amsterdam and connect with a 90-minute flight.

WHERE TO STAY
Hjortviken Country Club is just 15 minutes from Gothenburg-Landvetter Airport and only slightly similar to what we think of as a country club in the States. It’s modern with an open floor plan; black and white Helmut Lang photos hang in the hallways giving it that edgy look. There are tennis courts, indoor and outdoor pools, a night club, lavish gym, well-appointed meeting rooms and several hiking trails along the nearby lake. The Hjortviken Country Club is secluded and quiet; a great place just to relax with a drink (yes, you can actually take your glass into the indoor pool with you)! Ask for one of the patio rooms along the tennis courts for a special treat.

Clarion Hotel Drakken is a new reflective steel and glass tower that is the second tallest building in Gothenburg; it offers a cinematic theme (complete with Charlie Chaplin statue in the lobby), incredible views and oversized rooms with modern yet comfortable furnishings. The rooftop bar and free breakfast buffet complete with elevated fare that includes amazing crepes and charcuterie make it a great bargain (Rooms go for as low as $114 per night on hotels.com)!

WHAT TO DO
Rohsska Museet (Museum of Design And Crafts) has a collection of over 50,000 art objects with the majority of them being European handicraft items. Interestingly enough, the largest permanent exhibition is Design Stories, a 500-plus object display of common household items from the past 200 years including old cameras, toasters, clothing, typewriters, computers and more! This whimsical mix of historical and modern design almost seems uncurated. The Rohsska also has plenty of oddball interactive exhibits, making it family friendly.

Ego Distillers is set in an old factory building where the ball bearing was invented and manufactured. You can sample their award-winning liquors at the bar or community tables but what is truly interesting is the surrounding unusually large metal stills. Ego Distillers recently cleaned up at the World Drink Awards, taking the top three awards for their gin, vodka and absinthe (all made on the premises). Be sure to try some of the eccentric alcoholic “experiments” in the mini stills next to the bar including the Ginarita (gin infused with two Neapolitan pizzas)!

Seaweed foraging is something extra fun and different to do if you are visiting the Archipelago near Gothenburg. You can do it wearing waders or a full scuba suit and the best way for beginners is to team up with a foraging expert like Karolina Martinsson of algblomman.com. She forages on her own for Gothenburg’s Michelin starred chefs on the island of Stryros Batten, so she knows what types of seaweed and kelp are the tastiest. Karolina not only takes along foraging outerwear for her guests, but also brings delicious food for a little picnic on the rocks along the sea—this picnic includes a sweet seaweed panna cotta and flatbread made with seaweed, then topped with a creamy cheese and crunchy kelp. 

Fashion forward travelers will appreciate the 125-plus thrift and resale shops in Gothenburg; what sets them apart from the US is that there is as much for men as there is for women! These stores are incredibly clean without random piles of clothes thrown here and there. It is especially easy to find items from “Scandi” designers like Acne Jeans and, surprisingly, American baseball and basketball jerseys! Some of the stores are divided into independent men’s and women’s shops like Ragtime and Miss Ragtime. Both feature more “classic looks” than some of the other stores like Pop Boutique (which is a hipster’s dream)! The best way to scour all the best secondhand shops is to take the guided five-hour Secondhand Safari tour with stylist Theresa Axo who’s the epitome of a sharp dresser – you can sign up at axostyle.se.

WHERE TO EAT
“Fika” (a Swedish coffee break) is the top everyday activity in Gothenburg; the locals love their coffee even more than Americans! Fika usually includes one of Sweden’s famous cinnamon rolls known as Kanelbullar and Hagabullen. The first place to ever serve these in Gothenburg is Café Husaren, and you can see people walking around this famous café eating these 10” rolls. If you prefer your rolls in smaller sizes, you can visit the legendary Borgskogs where the bakers let you peek into their kitchen. Try the mind-blowing Cardamon and almond paste roll called the Kardemummabulle here.

For casual and cheap dining, nothing beats Café Magasinet which is in an openair alleyway that has a cluster of bars and restaurants. Not only are they famous for having dozens of types of coffee from around the world and savory Swedish sandwiches, but they’ve got classic Swedish pastries including something simply known as The Vacuum Cleaner because it resembles an old green vacuum cleaner that was commonplace about 50 years ago. The outside is made of green marzipan dipped in dark chocolate on each end and the cream filling is made with cookie crumbs, punch liqueur, butter and cocoa powder.  

Bikt is a stylish bistro café serving a lot of locally caught seafood and Mediterranean dishes. The pace is relaxed while the atmosphere is airy and friendly with mega tall ceilings, globe shaped chandeliers and stylish art. It’s got large front windows for people watching. The most popular dishes are Beef Tartare, Yellowfin Tuna Belly and Panfried Scallops with a variety of vegan dishes including Chickpea Breaded Cauliflower and Roasted Beetroot. 

After your foraging in Styrso Batten, take a half hour walk over to Popsicle, an outdoor café with a mixture of Modern American and Swedish fare. It features a lot of the seafood fished right on the island including mussels. People with sweet tooths will enjoy the lineup of house made desserts in the main room including two dozen types of gelato which you can eat on site or get to go; the Swedish Apple Cake is a must!

Before your visit to Ego Distillers, go next door to the funky Rollin Bistro Backyard. There’s some thought-provoking art and photographs on the wall of this former factory space, featuring a mix of Asian Street Food and American BBQ. All ingredients are locally sourced and the most popular items are the The OG, Black Garlic And Truffle Burger (wrapped in white paper like a 1950s drive in) and Sticky Rum & Coconut Ribs (pork ribs roasted with roasted pepper, chili, coconut, lime and rum). The ribs are enough to feed a whole table of hungry guests (you get about a dozen). The pace is relaxing and it feels like every guest knows each other.

For more information on planning a trip to Gothenburg, go to: goteborg.com and visitsweden.com.