A TOUCH OF RETRO FLAIR
Before you say that there are a million upscale steakhouse and/or Modern American venues in the city, let me point out that Monterey has several unique, charming retro touches including the aforementioned Jetsons-style ceiling lamps and curved orange velvet dining booths on the outer edges of the main floor. The series of tall arched shelves of liquor behind the bar almost looks like a library of spirits.
There are two particular retro touches that I fell in love with that I have not seen in any Manhattan fine dining establishments before. One is the stunningly beautiful cream-colored seven-foot prime rib cart. Guests pick out their own piece from the whole rib roast, getting the optional “au jus” and a cup of heavenly horseradish cream. Someone at the MTA should consider adding a larger version of this long cylindrical cart to the ends of select subway cars—it would attract more passengers and bring in a sophisticated dining crowd!
I asked Executive Chef James Tracey (who trained at the American Culinary Institute and has worked at the likes of Craft, Gramercy Tavern and Lespinasse) about how the prime rib cart concept came up and he revealed, “One of our partners, Dudi Sasson, and myself liked the idea of the prime rib cart and what it brings to the space. The space is large and open, compared to traditional steakhouses, which tend to be dark and a little cramped. We jumped on the opportunity to bring life to the space with table side elements. I think we have one of the best prime rib in the city and our Friday and Saturday night special (which is only $75 including an appetizer and dessert) is a great deal.”
Before you ask, YES—I had the prime rib which is about a 14 or 15-ounce aged prime cut and comes with ultra smooth mashed potatoes. My meat was sided with the Crispy Artichokes with Meyer Lemon appetizer as well as the Roasted Brussels Sprouts with Bacon, two highly satisfying EVOO laden dishes. This was quite a lot of food and could easily have served two people.
The other special touch, that I have previously only encountered in New Orleans, is Bananas Foster prepared at your table on a cart with gas burners; part of the secret to this indulgent dessert is using slightly underripe bananas. Order this and you will see that the flames and the buttery rum scent makes heads turn all around you—plus there will be lots of “oohs” and “aahs.” As for portion size, this classic Creole dessert can satisfy two or three folks with sweet tooths—and to make things even more special, it comes topped with candied pecans and large dollops of homemade vanilla ice cream.
I did try my guest’s Bananas Foster and it knocked me out but I had heard so much about Monterey’s Cloud Cake that I had to try it. This dessert features layers of soft, fluffy cake that almost melt in your mouth. The Cloud Cake features homemade whipped cream, light yellow cake layers, a little bit of strawberry coulis and a touch of fresh lime juice. Last but not least, it’s topped with 24K gold leaf. This is a perfect choice for those who enjoy a lighter, less rich dessert but still want something delicious and satisfying.
I had to ask Executive Chef Tracey what his perfect meal at his resto would be and he responded, “I love our Comté & Onion Bread, Barbecued Prawns, Crispy Artichokes, Porterhouse Steak and Chocolate Soufflé. That would essentially be my perfect meal at Monterey.”
A “MIXED BAG” CROWD
What kind of crowd does Monterey bring out being that it is smack dab in the center of the city’s most famous midtown sites? Tracey states, “Our clientele is mostly midtown business guests with a splash of tourists and some regulars. We are a few years in now and are hoping to continue to grow and have more people discover us. Our amazing private events spaces have been getting a lot of traction lately – we book parties from 15 all the way up to 240 people, and the team and I love hosting these celebrations.”
STELLAR RATINGS
You might have noticed that Monterey has 4.5 star and up ratings on Yelp. One of the keys to their success is hands-on ingredient sourcing by Chef Tracey and his kitchen staff. He reveals, “I have a great group of about five to seven trusted seafood vendors that I work with, depending on what they specialize in. My philosophy is always to go for the best sourcing, even if it means ordering from multiple places. I use La Frieda for all our dry-aged meats. We use local vegetables whenever they’re in season, particularly for daily specials.”
For seafood enthusiasts, Monterey’s offerings are, pardon the pun, “off the hook.” The Tuna Tartare, seafood tower known as the Monterey Plateau, Half Dozen Oysters platter, and Roast Branzino with Roasted Cauliflower, Caper Berries and Romanesco Sauce are bestsellers. The wine cellar is extensive and Beverage Director Aviram Turgeman has handpicked highly rated bottles from Spain, France and Italy.
Overall, Monterey strives to deliver not just a meal, but an experience that guests will remember. You will be surprised not only by the amazing quality of the food, but by the friendly staff and how promptly everything that you order comes out of the kitchen. Everyone working at Monterey seems to genuinely enjoy their job and connecting with guests. Chef Tracey is possibly the staffer most satisfied with his job, however. He concludes with a smile, “Opening Monterey was a joy simply because of how beautiful and different the space is. I’ve been able to build my own team that I love to work with every day.”
For more information on Monterey, visit montereyny.com